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Elvio Cogno, Ravera, Barolo 2017

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Sub RegionBarolo
RegionPiedmont
CountryItaly
ProducerElvio Cogno

Introduction

There is significant history behind the wines of Elvio Cogno. The winery is named after the patriarch of the family who originally worked at the Marcarini winery in the late 1950s before becoming a partner there. The Marcarini Estate was best known for producing traditional Piedmontese wines from the famous Brunate site in La Morra, which garnered a fine reputation. However, when Elvis retired, fulfilled his life long dream of owning an his own estate; Elvio Cogno Winery was born. He purchased an estate that included a winery and vineyards in the commune of Novello, with most notably a significant amount of the Cru Ravera.

“The wines are high-toned, pure expressions of Nebbiolo and have an amazing sense of place.”

Elvio was joined by his son-in-law, Valter Fissore, who quickly took over winemaking duties and now currently oversees the entire estate with his wife Nadia and their daughter Elena. It was under Valter that the individuality of the Ravera Cru became apparent. He focused on working meticulously in the vineyards, working cleanly but traditionally in the winery, and splitting out parcels within Ravera for separate bottling. Valter has a degree in enology and has a staggering understanding of the science behind making wine, however, he always uses his technical knowledge only as support. He first focuses on how the grapes taste, rather than what the labs tell him, to inform his decisions in the vineyard and the winery.

The Ravera Cru

Over the past two decades, Valter’s winemaking has improved. The wines were good, but now they great, and deliver some of the purest and most elegant expressions of Nebbiolo from Piedmont. His macerations are generally on the longer side–30-40 days–but with controlled temperatures. He uses almost exclusively neutral oak (the exception being the dolcetto that he uses to “break in” new barrels) larger-sized barrels. He believes in extended time in barrel and bottle to give the wines time to integrate. I can’t say enough about the quality of wines coming from the Elvio Cogno estate, they are high-toned, pure expressions of Nebbiolo and they have an amazing sense of place. He has gone so far as to split apart his Nebbiolo bottlings by clone type, hence the Ravera, Bricco Pernice, and Vigna Elena bottlings, though they also come from different parts of the Ravera Cru. If you haven’t tried these wines, now is the time as they are getting noticed in a very big way.

Location

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Founded by Etienne Camuzet in the 1920s, the domaine acquired vineyards but didn’t come into its current form until Etienne’s daughter died without any direct heirs. In 1959, she passed the holdings to a distant relative, Jean Meo, and thus the estate was born Meo Camuzet. Jean had a successful career in politics in Paris which meant that the holdings were looked after under a number of metayage agreements, the most famous of which was with Henri Jayer. The wines were always sold to negociants under Jean Meo until 1985 when the domaine bottled its first eponymous wine. In 1988 under Jean’s son, Jean-Nicolas, the domaine started managing its own vineyards. He worked closely with Henri Jayer during this time to understand the vineyards and winemaking style that Jayer was known for.

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Podere Colla has been growing grapes in the Piedmont region since the 1700s, but it wouldn't be surprising if you haven't heard of them. Only having recently begun producing their own wines, their Patriarch Beppe Colla made wines at the Bonardi and Prunotto wineries from the 1950s through the 1990s--becoming an absolute legend in Piedmont.

Prieler is a second-generation estate run on what was an historic farm, converted in the 1970s, on the western side of Lake Neusidl. The estate focuses on both traditional Austrian and Burgundian varietals. The family’s meticulous work in the vineyards, where soils range from iron rich brown loam to limestone, utilizes cover crops and strict canopy management to maintain restraint and elegance in the wines. Winemaking is low intervention and minimalist, with gentle pressing and a combination of both stainless steel and neutral barrels used, pending variety.

The Dauvissat domaine was established in the 1970s by Robert Dauvissat, but his son Rene pushed the reputation and holdings of the domaine to where they are today. Rene’s son Vincent started working at the domaine in the late 70s and still oversees production. Despite the current challenges of the climate in Chablis, the domaine's old vines and significant holdings in the best sites in Chablis result in extraordinary quality on a consistent basis.

As a collector of these wines for two decades, it has been interesting to observe perception versus reality. Raveneau is often given an edge over Dauvissat when discussing great producers in Chablis, although most agree that they are the best producers in the region. In reality, numerous blind side-by-sides over the years have revealed much more of an even match. Especially considering the meteoric rise in prices for Raveneau, I hope that collectors look to Dauvissat and understand that while different, the wines deserve to be on an equal footing with Raveneau.

Based on the current level of respect for the Rostaing wines, one would assume that they have been around for generations. In reality, the domaine was started just a few decades ago. Sort of.

When Rene Rostaing founded the estate in 1971, he was working as a notary. He continued his work while moonlighting as a winemaker until the estate grew to a size that could support him. He was lucky in that while he was not a winemaker, his uncle, the famous Marius Gentaz, was there to guide him over the years. He then married into the Dervieux family, adding Albert Dervieux as another shepherd along his winemaking journey. When both Gentaz and Dervieux retired their parcels, he purchased their vineyards, quickly putting him in the position of managing arguably the best dirt in the Northern Rhone.

You'd be hard-pressed to find a more iconic American winery than Ridge Vineyards. With a history dating back to 1962, they've changed very little since that first vintage. They are masters of making cabernet sauvignon and what is perhaps the most American grape, zinfandel. Their wines are elegant, with a clear sense of place, and are some of the most age-worthy wines produced in the United States. This legacy is largely due to Paul Draper, the legendary winemaker who held his position from 1969 until his retirement at the age of 80 in 2016. While Paul’s gift for winemaking was clear, it was his ability to let the sites he worked with shine by showing not just their terroir but also vintage character.

Robert Groffier is a relatively new domaine when speaking of Burgundy. Started in the 1950s by Jules Groffier, it is now run by the third generation, Nicolas Groffier. Owning just under eight hectares, the domaine is located in Morey St. Denis but has holdings on both the north and south side of the village.

Located in the town of Tadten, not far from the Hungarian border, Sattler is now run by the fourth generation of the family, Erich Sattler. Outside of some changes in the vineyards, he has kept the estate consistent with previous generations.

Perhaps the definition of cult California cabernet, Screaming Eagle is considered to be the Holy Grail among many collectors. The founders made what was essentially a hobby into one of the most collectible wines in the world.

When Jean Phillips bought original vineyard in 1986, it was already planted to a cabernet. From there, she added cabernet franc, merlot, and more cabernet sauvignon vines. When the vines came of age, Phillips reached out to Heidi Barret, a then up-and-coming winemaker in the valley, to produce the first wine for the 1992 vintage. The release gained significant acclaim, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Thierry’s journey to the Loire was not traditional. After moving from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, he immediately connected with Charly Foucault from Clos Rougeard. Buying in entirely into the practice of biodynamic, he not only converted his entire estate but also became of the biggest proponents the practice both in France and world wide.

Theirry works parcels in both Saumur (for his whites) and Saumur Champigny (for his reds). Thanks to time spent in the vineyard and his biodynamic dedication, he has been able to identify parcels by soil type to individually farm, vinify, and bottle.

Egon Müller is arguably the most legendary estate in Germany. Their family has owned the property since 1797 and they have produced some of the most sought-after and age-worthy wines in Germany’s history. They own almost one third of the Scharzhofberg vineyard, a Grand Cru equivalent and the crown jewel in the family’s holdings. The wines walk a razor's edge with an uncanny balance between the exotic spice and generous fruit as well as the laser focus and acidity.

For a very long time, the wines from Dönnhoff flew under the radar. Riesling in general took a back seat for many collectors, with only the some aware of the magic that happens when the sweet wines have bottle age. Thanks to the likes of Weingut Keller, Egon Muller, and many others, the collector market has awoken to the possibility of great Riesling. The wines from the Dönnhoff family certainly belong in that category. The family has been quietly farming and producing some of the most compelling from Germany, now considered a guiding light in their home region of the Nahe.

Located in the Kremstal on the edge of Senftenberg Mountain, the history of Weingut Nigl is clear when you first set eyes on the estate. Wine production only started in 1985 under the vision of Martin Nigl, while the family was farmers for 200 years prior.

In terms of German wine estates, Robert Weil is a relative newcomer. Established in 1875 in the heart of some of the best vineyards in the Rheingau, they made their home in the village of Kiedrich, an area known for its wine as early as 950 AD. The estate has significant holdings in some of the finest vineyards in the region, Turmberg and Gräfenberg in Kiedrich, which has further cemented its recognition beyond the international acclaim it receives for being in the Rheingau.

There is a fine line between decadence and laser-like finesse. The wines of Willi Schaefer walk that line, with a crystalline focus that seems next to impossible. The wines drink beautifully when young, but have the ability to age as well as any from Riesling.

A World Of Wine