J.L. Chave • Berkeley And. Stuart

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Sub RegionHermitage
RegionRhone Valley
CountryFrance
ProducerJ.L. Chave

Introduction

There is a quiet confidence that exudes from Jean-Louis Chave; when you spend time with him, you realize that you are in the presence of one of the greatest vignerons of our generation. His philosophy and ambitions are measured in the span of a generation, not months or years. Considering the history of the domaine, Jean-Louis’ perspective shouldn’t come as a surprise; he is the 16th generation to run it, which has been passed from father to son every generation since 1481.

Father to Son

Much of the fame of the domaine was built on the efforts of Jean-Louis’ father Gerard’s work from the 1950s to the 1990s. Jean-Louis worked alongside Gerard for many of these years, eventually taking over in 1992. Gerard is still present but the domaine is fully guided by Jean-Louis these days, and the rise in quality, consistency, and long-term investment is staggering.

Reclamation

Not only has the domaine’s Hermitage been firmly planted as the benchmark for the appellation, it is also arguably the best wine coming out of the Rhone Valley, regularly included in the top wines on the world. Their top wine, Cuvee Cathelin, was the brainchild of Jean Louis and Gerard. It is only produced in years where the Hermitage is able to stand on its own without certain old vine parcels, and has become stratospheric in its collectability and demand. Jean-Louis’ work hasn’t stopped at Hermitage either, one of the first things he did when joining the domaine full time in the early 1990s was to reclaim the family vineyards in Saint Joseph that had been abandoned during Phylloxera in the late 1800s.

These vineyards are located on extremely steep slopes in the heart of the original Saint Joseph appellation, and had been completely taken over by forest.

Over the last 30 years, Jean-Louis has painstakingly reclaimed these vineyards, inch by inch, building extensive terracing on pure granite, helping to return Saint Joseph to the level of respect it deserves. In addition to the estate wines, Jean-Louis also started a negociant business, which produces reds and whites from Crozes Hermitage, Hermitage, Saint Joseph, and a fantastic Cotes du Rhone under the “Mon Coeur” label. Winemaking across all the wines is remarkably similar, with a focus on starting with low yields and excellent vineyard sites. Jean-Louis never steers away from ripeness, but because of the quality of the vineyards the wines always retain a freshness and bright acidity, even in the warmest of years. The wines are fermented in a combination of stainless steel and larger neutral barrels, with new oak used minimally.

The top wines have an extremely long elevage before spending a few months in stainless steel to ensure a resulting wine that is as consistent as possible. The result of Jean-Louis’ hard work and attention has been wines that are truly compelling, at all price ranges. Despite their rise in price over the years, they still represent one of the most underrated wines on the market when compared t other world class wines. The wines have a soul and sense of place that is rarely found outside of Burgundy today and belong in any serious collector’s cellar.

Location

J.L. Chave, Hermitage Rouge 1990
Hermitage Rouge
Available
1
1500
$4,287.00
J.L. Chave, Hermitage Rouge 1990
0
J.L. Chave, Hermitage Rouge 1991
Hermitage Rouge
Available
1
750
$2,679.00
J.L. Chave, Hermitage Rouge 1998
Hermitage Rouge
Available
1
3000
$3,000.00
J.L. Chave, Hermitage Rouge 1999
Hermitage Rouge
Available
5
3000
$3,000.00
J.L. Chave, Hermitage Rouge 2000
Hermitage Rouge
Available
2
1500
$1,499.00
J.L. Chave, Hermitage Rouge 2000
Hermitage Rouge
Available
1
3000
$2,654.00
J.L. Chave, Hermitage Rouge 2008
0
J.L. Chave, Hermitage Rouge 2021
Hermitage Rouge
Available
9
750
$355.00
J.L. Chave, Saint Joseph 2021
Saint Joseph
Available
17
750
$113.00

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The wines from Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino fly under most Piedmont collectors' radar, largely because they really only became commercially available in the mid-1990s. Prior to that, Alessandro served as the enologist and vinicultural manager for Cantina Bartolo Mascarello. Alessandro was responsible for producing the wines for Bartolo from 1978 to 1997, helping to create some of the legends we are drinking today.

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Founded by Etienne Camuzet in the 1920s, the domaine acquired vineyards but didn’t come into its current form until Etienne’s daughter died without any direct heirs. In 1959, she passed the holdings to a distant relative, Jean Meo, and thus the estate was born Meo Camuzet. Jean had a successful career in politics in Paris which meant that the holdings were looked after under a number of metayage agreements, the most famous of which was with Henri Jayer. The wines were always sold to negociants under Jean Meo until 1985 when the domaine bottled its first eponymous wine. In 1988 under Jean’s son, Jean-Nicolas, the domaine started managing its own vineyards. He worked closely with Henri Jayer during this time to understand the vineyards and winemaking style that Jayer was known for.

First inhabited in the 11th century as a rural defense fortress, the hilltop Montevertine was purchased in 1967 as a vacation home by Sergio Manetti. In an effort to produce wines for friends and family, he decided to plant two hectares of vineyards and build a small winery on the estate. With its first vintage, in 1971, the potential of Montevertine became clear, prompting Manetti to devote himself to producing wine full time. Manetti grew Sangiovese almost exclusively; he even left the Chianti Classico consortium due to their requirement of using Trebbiano. His wines, from then on, were simply labeled Rosso di Toscana, although they are the farthest thing from a Super Tuscan. The Montevertine wines are shining examples of the great heights that Sangiovese can reach when grown in Chianti Classico.

Located in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Mount Eden is one of the best-kept secrets in California. While they don’t get the attention that some of their peers in Napa valley do, they are located just across a valley from Ridge Vineyards' iconic Monte Bello vineyard, so there is clear potential for world class wine.

Founded in 1981 by Marchese Lodovico Antinori, Ornellaia auspicoiusly produced its first vintage in 1985. It quickly became a benchmark for the new category of Italian Super Tuscans. The Mondavi family from California became co-owners in the late 1990s and eventually took full control in 2002, splitting 50% ownership with Marchese de Frescobaldi. When Mondavi was bought by Constellation, Frescobaldi took over the remaining 50% ownership and has owned it outright since 2005.

The wines from Podere Campriano are compelling on their own. The fact that they are produced by a genuine family who live in a modest farmhouse surrounded by a mere two hectares of vines make these wines even more compelling. The vines are tended by hand along with the rest of the crops produced on their farm.

100% Sangiovese is grown on dark galestro schist soils, vinified by micro terroir split by elevation and exposure. The winemaking is generally the same across all the red wines, with fermentation in stainless steel followed by time in large neutral Botti. The wine is then placed back into stainless steel tanks before spending time in bottle prior to release.

Podere Colla has been growing grapes in the Piedmont region since the 1700s, but it wouldn't be surprising if you haven't heard of them. Only having recently begun producing their own wines, their Patriarch Beppe Colla made wines at the Bonardi and Prunotto wineries from the 1950s through the 1990s--becoming an absolute legend in Piedmont.

Prieler is a second-generation estate run on what was an historic farm, converted in the 1970s, on the western side of Lake Neusidl. The estate focuses on both traditional Austrian and Burgundian varietals. The family’s meticulous work in the vineyards, where soils range from iron rich brown loam to limestone, utilizes cover crops and strict canopy management to maintain restraint and elegance in the wines. Winemaking is low intervention and minimalist, with gentle pressing and a combination of both stainless steel and neutral barrels used, pending variety.

The Dauvissat domaine was established in the 1970s by Robert Dauvissat, but his son Rene pushed the reputation and holdings of the domaine to where they are today. Rene’s son Vincent started working at the domaine in the late 70s and still oversees production. Despite the current challenges of the climate in Chablis, the domaine's old vines and significant holdings in the best sites in Chablis result in extraordinary quality on a consistent basis.

As a collector of these wines for two decades, it has been interesting to observe perception versus reality. Raveneau is often given an edge over Dauvissat when discussing great producers in Chablis, although most agree that they are the best producers in the region. In reality, numerous blind side-by-sides over the years have revealed much more of an even match. Especially considering the meteoric rise in prices for Raveneau, I hope that collectors look to Dauvissat and understand that while different, the wines deserve to be on an equal footing with Raveneau.

Based on the current level of respect for the Rostaing wines, one would assume that they have been around for generations. In reality, the domaine was started just a few decades ago. Sort of.

When Rene Rostaing founded the estate in 1971, he was working as a notary. He continued his work while moonlighting as a winemaker until the estate grew to a size that could support him. He was lucky in that while he was not a winemaker, his uncle, the famous Marius Gentaz, was there to guide him over the years. He then married into the Dervieux family, adding Albert Dervieux as another shepherd along his winemaking journey. When both Gentaz and Dervieux retired their parcels, he purchased their vineyards, quickly putting him in the position of managing arguably the best dirt in the Northern Rhone.

You'd be hard-pressed to find a more iconic American winery than Ridge Vineyards. With a history dating back to 1962, they've changed very little since that first vintage. They are masters of making cabernet sauvignon and what is perhaps the most American grape, zinfandel. Their wines are elegant, with a clear sense of place, and are some of the most age-worthy wines produced in the United States. This legacy is largely due to Paul Draper, the legendary winemaker who held his position from 1969 until his retirement at the age of 80 in 2016. While Paul’s gift for winemaking was clear, it was his ability to let the sites he worked with shine by showing not just their terroir but also vintage character.

Robert Groffier is a relatively new domaine when speaking of Burgundy. Started in the 1950s by Jules Groffier, it is now run by the third generation, Nicolas Groffier. Owning just under eight hectares, the domaine is located in Morey St. Denis but has holdings on both the north and south side of the village.

Located in the town of Tadten, not far from the Hungarian border, Sattler is now run by the fourth generation of the family, Erich Sattler. Outside of some changes in the vineyards, he has kept the estate consistent with previous generations.

Perhaps the definition of cult California cabernet, Screaming Eagle is considered to be the Holy Grail among many collectors. The founders made what was essentially a hobby into one of the most collectible wines in the world.

When Jean Phillips bought original vineyard in 1986, it was already planted to a cabernet. From there, she added cabernet franc, merlot, and more cabernet sauvignon vines. When the vines came of age, Phillips reached out to Heidi Barret, a then up-and-coming winemaker in the valley, to produce the first wine for the 1992 vintage. The release gained significant acclaim, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Thierry’s journey to the Loire was not traditional. After moving from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, he immediately connected with Charly Foucault from Clos Rougeard. Buying in entirely into the practice of biodynamic, he not only converted his entire estate but also became of the biggest proponents the practice both in France and world wide.

Theirry works parcels in both Saumur (for his whites) and Saumur Champigny (for his reds). Thanks to time spent in the vineyard and his biodynamic dedication, he has been able to identify parcels by soil type to individually farm, vinify, and bottle.

Egon Müller is arguably the most legendary estate in Germany. Their family has owned the property since 1797 and they have produced some of the most sought-after and age-worthy wines in Germany’s history. They own almost one third of the Scharzhofberg vineyard, a Grand Cru equivalent and the crown jewel in the family’s holdings. The wines walk a razor's edge with an uncanny balance between the exotic spice and generous fruit as well as the laser focus and acidity.

For a very long time, the wines from Dönnhoff flew under the radar. Riesling in general took a back seat for many collectors, with only the some aware of the magic that happens when the sweet wines have bottle age. Thanks to the likes of Weingut Keller, Egon Muller, and many others, the collector market has awoken to the possibility of great Riesling. The wines from the Dönnhoff family certainly belong in that category. The family has been quietly farming and producing some of the most compelling from Germany, now considered a guiding light in their home region of the Nahe.

Located in the Kremstal on the edge of Senftenberg Mountain, the history of Weingut Nigl is clear when you first set eyes on the estate. Wine production only started in 1985 under the vision of Martin Nigl, while the family was farmers for 200 years prior.

In terms of German wine estates, Robert Weil is a relative newcomer. Established in 1875 in the heart of some of the best vineyards in the Rheingau, they made their home in the village of Kiedrich, an area known for its wine as early as 950 AD. The estate has significant holdings in some of the finest vineyards in the region, Turmberg and Gräfenberg in Kiedrich, which has further cemented its recognition beyond the international acclaim it receives for being in the Rheingau.

There is a fine line between decadence and laser-like finesse. The wines of Willi Schaefer walk that line, with a crystalline focus that seems next to impossible. The wines drink beautifully when young, but have the ability to age as well as any from Riesling.

A World Of Wine