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Sub RegionVosne-Romanee
RegionBurgundy
CountryFrance
ProducerMeo Camuzet

Introduction

Founded by Etienne Camuzet in the 1920s, the domaine acquired vineyards but didn’t come into its current form until Etienne’s daughter died without any direct heirs. In 1959, she passed the holdings to a distant relative, Jean Meo, and thus the estate was born Meo Camuzet. Jean had a successful career in politics in Paris which meant that the holdings were looked after under a number of metayage agreements, the most famous of which was with Henri Jayer. The wines were always sold to negociants under Jean Meo until 1985 when the domaine bottled its first eponymous wine. In 1988 under Jean’s son, Jean-Nicolas, the domaine started managing its own vineyards. He worked closely with Henri Jayer during this time to understand the vineyards and winemaking style that Jayer was known for.

Vosne-Romanée

Over the last 30 years, there has been a shift to certified organic viticulture. The biggest changes have been in the vineyards’ canopy management, allowing the vines to self-regulate a lower crop level. In the winery, the winemaking team entirely destems and implements a whole berry cold soak for four to five days prior to fermentation. They use indigenous yeasts and minimal pigeage to keep the wines as soft as possible. There is a range of new oak used, with up to 100% for the Grand Crus, 60-70% for the Premier Crus, 50% for village wines, and the Bourgogne rouge aged in 1 year old barrels. The wines spend between 15-18 months in barrel, and are not fined or filtered.

The wines all present a Vosne personality, even the premier crus in Nuits, owing not just to the personality of the winemaking but also to their proximity to Vosne Romanee (Boudots and Murgers are both adjacent to Vosne Romanee).

The domaine is known for producing wines of finesse and elegance, however, they take a notoriously long time to show their true potential.

Highlights include both the Nuits St. Georges Premier Crus Les Murgers and Les Boudots – both located just over the line from Vosne Romanee, the wines are remarkably elegant for Nuits. Meo also makes outstanding wines from the Vosne Premier Crus, Brulees and Charmes, but the jewel is from the Premier Cru Cros Parantoux (the site revived by Henri Jayer). There are six Grand Crus bottled by the domaine, with Corton Perrieres, Corton Vignes au Saint and Corton Rognet some of the best values. The middle tier is Echezeaux and Clos de Vougeot (there is occasionally a separate bottling – Pres le Cellier – that comes from the best parcel within the Clos) and the most revered site, Richebourg, at the top. Of note for collectors, Jean Nicolas started a negociant bottling under the Meo Camuzet Freres et Souers label. The wines are made either from purchased grapes or short-term land leases. They can be very good, with a range of quality at the negociant level.

Location

Meo Camuzet, Aux Boudots 1er Cru, Nuits Saint Georges 2018
0
Meo Camuzet, Brulees 1er Cru, Vosne Romanee 2019
0
Meo Camuzet, Brulees 1er Cru, Vosne Romanee 2021
Vosne-Romanee
Available
1
750
$899.00
Meo Camuzet, Cros Parantoux 1er Cru, Vosne Romanee 2001
Vosne-Romanee
Available
1
750
$2,999.00
Meo Camuzet, Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot 2022
Clos De Vougeot
Available
6
750
$559.00
Meo Camuzet, Les Chaumes 1er Cru, Vosne Romanee 2019
Vosne-Romanee
Available
1
750
$230.00
Meo Camuzet, Les Chaumes 1er Cru, Vosne Romanee 2020
0
Meo Camuzet, Les Chaumes 1er Cru, Vosne Romanee 2021
Vosne-Romanee
Available
4
750
$289.00
Meo Camuzet, Les Chaumes 1er Cru, Vosne Romanee 2022
Vosne-Romanee
Available
4
750
$299.00
Meo Camuzet, Les Feusselottes 1er Cru, Chambolle Musigny 2022
Chambolle-Musigny
Available
4
750
$289.00

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The wines from Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino fly under most Piedmont collectors' radar, largely because they really only became commercially available in the mid-1990s. Prior to that, Alessandro served as the enologist and vinicultural manager for Cantina Bartolo Mascarello. Alessandro was responsible for producing the wines for Bartolo from 1978 to 1997, helping to create some of the legends we are drinking today.

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Understanding the decisions of Louis Roederer is a complicated one, but starts with having clarity on their goals. The house as we know it was founded by Louis Roederer in 1833. His son focused heavily on the development of the Russian market, going so far as to create a prestige cuvee, known as Cristal, for the Czar himself that first became publicly available in 1945.

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Though not as well known in the United States as in the UK or France, Pol Roger has made significant inroads thanks to their attention to detail, history, and the fact that they own 50% of the vineyards from which they source. Founded in 1849 by the firm’s namesake, Pol Roger is still family run today, with the 6th generation, Hubert de Billy, having recently joined.

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Before his passing, Denis' young son Arnaud had been working alongside and took over the domaine. With the support of his family, Arnaud has made changes including using significantly less new oak, lower yields in the vineyards, and some notable winemaking techniques. Arnaud also uses stems--for certain wines he meticulously cuts the berries from the main stem of the cluster-- which results in lifted aromatics and an incredible texture for which the domaine has become known.

Diamond Creek certainly wasn’t the first iconic estate to produce cabernet in Napa Valley, but they led the charge for super premium, small production wines with a clear sense of micro terroir. In a way, they paved the way for many of the cult wines from Napa Valley today.

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Trying to reconcile the fame of Aubert de Villaine and the humble beginnings of Domaine de Villaine is a difficult thing to do. As the co-director of Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Aubert oversees production of arguably the most sought after wines on the planet. At the same time, he chooses to make his home a domaine in the unassuming village of Bouzeron in the sleepy Cote Chalonnaise. His choice of Bouzeron only reinforces his desire to be known as a vigneron, while his focus around the unpretentious grape Aligote makes him a true advocate for the appellation. The domaine also produces chardonnay and pinot noir from single vineyards in the area, the wines representing an amazing level of quality. The vineyard work is intensive, followinog biodynamic principles. The winery uses wood tanks for fermentation, with minimal batonnage for the whites and elevage lasting roughly 12-14 months.

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Pascal Mugneret spent the better part of the last decade working to better understand the subtleties of the terroir that his father farmed before him. He has made significant changes in the vineyards in an effort to produce with as minimal intervention as possible. He has moved to biodynamics, tills only minimally, uses cover crops, hedges high and leaves many of the apical buds. His vines stand out compared to his neighbors, and his methodology has been admired by many of the younger vignerons in the village. In the cellar, he generally uses between 50-100% stem inclusion with very low sulfur at all points during winemaking. The wines are aged in barrels ranging from zero to 100% new oak, for between 12-18 months depending on the vintage and parcel. The wines have an amazing honesty and purity of expression, but also have significant structure. These wines are coming from some of the most sought after terroirs in the Cote d’Or making this is a domaine to follow.

Long regarded as the most important estate in modern day Piedmont, the house of Conterno first bottled their Barolo in 1920. At that time, it was common practice for Barolo to be sold in cask and was generally consumed early. With the choice of bottling, the Conterno name became synonymous with quality, ageability, and Barolo itself. The Monfortino bottling followed shortly after, and the rest is history. The estate was then guided by Giacomo and his son Giovanni for the following 80 years with an eye to quality, vineyard management, and wines that speak to place.

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An early proponent of high-density plantings, he believes that this allows the vines to capture more from their terroir. He began this practice in the Saint Aubin premier cru site Derriere Chez Edouard, planting at between 28,000-30,000 vines per hectare, roughly three times the normal plantings and amount of work in the vineyard. The results have been remarkable.

Olivier was also one of the first winemakers in the Cote de Beaune to use large barrels, ranging between 350 to 600 liter barrels. Following harvest, the grapes are sorted and then pressed with the juice before moving to stainless steel tanks. After fermentation, the wines are moved to these large barrels with generally 0-15% new oak for roughly 18-24 months.

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At harvest, up to 20% of the stems are retained and the juice aged in cask for 15-18 months. Roughly 50% new oak is used on the Grand Crus, 30-50% on the premier Crus, 20% on the village wines, and used barrels on the Bourgogne rouge.

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With a family history of producing wine, Jean and Agnes Foillard weren’t strangers to the wine business when they took over his father's domaine in 1980 in Morgon. Jean, however, early on eschewed the regional trends by focusing on more traditional winemaking practices to produce wines that tasted nothing like what commercial producers in Beaujolais were making. Following the teaching of Jules Chauvet, Jean and three other local vignerons (Marcel Lapierre, Jean-Paul Thevenet, and Guy Breton – the “gang of four”) formed a close relationship and began the movement that changed Beaujolais.

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Marcel took over his family domaine in 1973 but his true “father” in terms of his winemaking career was the now infamous Jules Chauvet. In 1981, Chauvet began teaching Marcel the traditional ways of winemaking that had persisted in Beaujolais for hundreds of years before modern viticulture arrived. Along with his friends and fellow vignerons Guy Breton, Jean Paul Thevenet, and Jean Foillard, the “Gang of Four” was formed, all following the guidance of Chauvet. Their methods were a return to the old practices of viticulture and vinification of their forefathers, focusing on old vines, organic and biodynamic farming, late harvests, and rigorous sorting which resulted in grapes that had the potential to produce world class wines.

Founded by Etienne Camuzet in the 1920s, the domaine acquired vineyards but didn’t come into its current form until Etienne’s daughter died without any direct heirs. In 1959, she passed the holdings to a distant relative, Jean Meo, and thus the estate was born Meo Camuzet. Jean had a successful career in politics in Paris which meant that the holdings were looked after under a number of metayage agreements, the most famous of which was with Henri Jayer. The wines were always sold to negociants under Jean Meo until 1985 when the domaine bottled its first eponymous wine. In 1988 under Jean’s son, Jean-Nicolas, the domaine started managing its own vineyards. He worked closely with Henri Jayer during this time to understand the vineyards and winemaking style that Jayer was known for.

First inhabited in the 11th century as a rural defense fortress, the hilltop Montevertine was purchased in 1967 as a vacation home by Sergio Manetti. In an effort to produce wines for friends and family, he decided to plant two hectares of vineyards and build a small winery on the estate. With its first vintage, in 1971, the potential of Montevertine became clear, prompting Manetti to devote himself to producing wine full time. Manetti grew Sangiovese almost exclusively; he even left the Chianti Classico consortium due to their requirement of using Trebbiano. His wines, from then on, were simply labeled Rosso di Toscana, although they are the farthest thing from a Super Tuscan. The Montevertine wines are shining examples of the great heights that Sangiovese can reach when grown in Chianti Classico.

Located in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Mount Eden is one of the best-kept secrets in California. While they don’t get the attention that some of their peers in Napa valley do, they are located just across a valley from Ridge Vineyards' iconic Monte Bello vineyard, so there is clear potential for world class wine.

Founded in 1981 by Marchese Lodovico Antinori, Ornellaia auspicoiusly produced its first vintage in 1985. It quickly became a benchmark for the new category of Italian Super Tuscans. The Mondavi family from California became co-owners in the late 1990s and eventually took full control in 2002, splitting 50% ownership with Marchese de Frescobaldi. When Mondavi was bought by Constellation, Frescobaldi took over the remaining 50% ownership and has owned it outright since 2005.

The wines from Podere Campriano are compelling on their own. The fact that they are produced by a genuine family who live in a modest farmhouse surrounded by a mere two hectares of vines make these wines even more compelling. The vines are tended by hand along with the rest of the crops produced on their farm.

100% Sangiovese is grown on dark galestro schist soils, vinified by micro terroir split by elevation and exposure. The winemaking is generally the same across all the red wines, with fermentation in stainless steel followed by time in large neutral Botti. The wine is then placed back into stainless steel tanks before spending time in bottle prior to release.

Podere Colla has been growing grapes in the Piedmont region since the 1700s, but it wouldn't be surprising if you haven't heard of them. Only having recently begun producing their own wines, their Patriarch Beppe Colla made wines at the Bonardi and Prunotto wineries from the 1950s through the 1990s--becoming an absolute legend in Piedmont.

Prieler is a second-generation estate run on what was an historic farm, converted in the 1970s, on the western side of Lake Neusidl. The estate focuses on both traditional Austrian and Burgundian varietals. The family’s meticulous work in the vineyards, where soils range from iron rich brown loam to limestone, utilizes cover crops and strict canopy management to maintain restraint and elegance in the wines. Winemaking is low intervention and minimalist, with gentle pressing and a combination of both stainless steel and neutral barrels used, pending variety.

The Dauvissat domaine was established in the 1970s by Robert Dauvissat, but his son Rene pushed the reputation and holdings of the domaine to where they are today. Rene’s son Vincent started working at the domaine in the late 70s and still oversees production. Despite the current challenges of the climate in Chablis, the domaine's old vines and significant holdings in the best sites in Chablis result in extraordinary quality on a consistent basis.

As a collector of these wines for two decades, it has been interesting to observe perception versus reality. Raveneau is often given an edge over Dauvissat when discussing great producers in Chablis, although most agree that they are the best producers in the region. In reality, numerous blind side-by-sides over the years have revealed much more of an even match. Especially considering the meteoric rise in prices for Raveneau, I hope that collectors look to Dauvissat and understand that while different, the wines deserve to be on an equal footing with Raveneau.

Based on the current level of respect for the Rostaing wines, one would assume that they have been around for generations. In reality, the domaine was started just a few decades ago. Sort of.

When Rene Rostaing founded the estate in 1971, he was working as a notary. He continued his work while moonlighting as a winemaker until the estate grew to a size that could support him. He was lucky in that while he was not a winemaker, his uncle, the famous Marius Gentaz, was there to guide him over the years. He then married into the Dervieux family, adding Albert Dervieux as another shepherd along his winemaking journey. When both Gentaz and Dervieux retired their parcels, he purchased their vineyards, quickly putting him in the position of managing arguably the best dirt in the Northern Rhone.

You'd be hard-pressed to find a more iconic American winery than Ridge Vineyards. With a history dating back to 1962, they've changed very little since that first vintage. They are masters of making cabernet sauvignon and what is perhaps the most American grape, zinfandel. Their wines are elegant, with a clear sense of place, and are some of the most age-worthy wines produced in the United States. This legacy is largely due to Paul Draper, the legendary winemaker who held his position from 1969 until his retirement at the age of 80 in 2016. While Paul’s gift for winemaking was clear, it was his ability to let the sites he worked with shine by showing not just their terroir but also vintage character.

Robert Groffier is a relatively new domaine when speaking of Burgundy. Started in the 1950s by Jules Groffier, it is now run by the third generation, Nicolas Groffier. Owning just under eight hectares, the domaine is located in Morey St. Denis but has holdings on both the north and south side of the village.

Located in the town of Tadten, not far from the Hungarian border, Sattler is now run by the fourth generation of the family, Erich Sattler. Outside of some changes in the vineyards, he has kept the estate consistent with previous generations.

Perhaps the definition of cult California cabernet, Screaming Eagle is considered to be the Holy Grail among many collectors. The founders made what was essentially a hobby into one of the most collectible wines in the world.

When Jean Phillips bought original vineyard in 1986, it was already planted to a cabernet. From there, she added cabernet franc, merlot, and more cabernet sauvignon vines. When the vines came of age, Phillips reached out to Heidi Barret, a then up-and-coming winemaker in the valley, to produce the first wine for the 1992 vintage. The release gained significant acclaim, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Thierry’s journey to the Loire was not traditional. After moving from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, he immediately connected with Charly Foucault from Clos Rougeard. Buying in entirely into the practice of biodynamic, he not only converted his entire estate but also became of the biggest proponents the practice both in France and world wide.

Theirry works parcels in both Saumur (for his whites) and Saumur Champigny (for his reds). Thanks to time spent in the vineyard and his biodynamic dedication, he has been able to identify parcels by soil type to individually farm, vinify, and bottle.

Egon Müller is arguably the most legendary estate in Germany. Their family has owned the property since 1797 and they have produced some of the most sought-after and age-worthy wines in Germany’s history. They own almost one third of the Scharzhofberg vineyard, a Grand Cru equivalent and the crown jewel in the family’s holdings. The wines walk a razor's edge with an uncanny balance between the exotic spice and generous fruit as well as the laser focus and acidity.

For a very long time, the wines from Dönnhoff flew under the radar. Riesling in general took a back seat for many collectors, with only the some aware of the magic that happens when the sweet wines have bottle age. Thanks to the likes of Weingut Keller, Egon Muller, and many others, the collector market has awoken to the possibility of great Riesling. The wines from the Dönnhoff family certainly belong in that category. The family has been quietly farming and producing some of the most compelling from Germany, now considered a guiding light in their home region of the Nahe.

Located in the Kremstal on the edge of Senftenberg Mountain, the history of Weingut Nigl is clear when you first set eyes on the estate. Wine production only started in 1985 under the vision of Martin Nigl, while the family was farmers for 200 years prior.

In terms of German wine estates, Robert Weil is a relative newcomer. Established in 1875 in the heart of some of the best vineyards in the Rheingau, they made their home in the village of Kiedrich, an area known for its wine as early as 950 AD. The estate has significant holdings in some of the finest vineyards in the region, Turmberg and Gräfenberg in Kiedrich, which has further cemented its recognition beyond the international acclaim it receives for being in the Rheingau.

There is a fine line between decadence and laser-like finesse. The wines of Willi Schaefer walk that line, with a crystalline focus that seems next to impossible. The wines drink beautifully when young, but have the ability to age as well as any from Riesling.

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