Rene Rostaing • Berkeley And. Stuart

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Sub RegionCote-Rotie
RegionRhone Valley
CountryFrance
ProducerRene Rostaing

Introduction

Based on the current level of respect for the Rostaing wines, one would assume that they have been around for generations. In reality, the domaine was started just a few decades ago. Sort of.

When Rene Rostaing founded the estate in 1971, he was working as a notary. He continued his work while moonlighting as a winemaker until the estate grew to a size that could support him. He was lucky in that while he was not a winemaker, his uncle, the famous Marius Gentaz, was there to guide him over the years. He then married into the Dervieux family, adding Albert Dervieux as another shepherd along his winemaking journey. When both Gentaz and Dervieux retired their parcels, he purchased their vineyards, quickly putting him in the position of managing arguably the best dirt in the Northern Rhone.

“While Rene has a significant respect for the past, he is not afraid of changes and over the years has tried numerous different techniques in his quest to produce the best Cote Rotie that he possibly can.”

Time Complex

Rene is minimal in his new oak use, maxing out at 15%, and generally uses the majority of the stems during fermentation. He also employs a long maceration lasting 15+ days and an even longer elevage than his “traditional” peers in the appellation. He does use a rotary fermentation tank, but much like the days of old, uses it to produce a long, gentle maceration, rather than for its intended purpose to speed up the process. The results over the years have been stunning, always some of the most consistent and complex wines produced in Cote Rotie. They are truly a world class expression of Syrah. With his son Pierre now firmly at the reigns, the future is secure and worth watching the evolution to come.

Location

Rene Rostaing, La Landonne, Cote Rotie 2020
Cote-Rotie
Available
1
750
$180.00

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The wines from Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino fly under most Piedmont collectors' radar, largely because they really only became commercially available in the mid-1990s. Prior to that, Alessandro served as the enologist and vinicultural manager for Cantina Bartolo Mascarello. Alessandro was responsible for producing the wines for Bartolo from 1978 to 1997, helping to create some of the legends we are drinking today.

Located in a sleepy village just a few miles from the village of Chablis, Alice and Olivier De Moor are making a name for themselves in the broader region. Their style of winemaking is a bit of an homage to both of their heritages, with Olivier hailing from Chablis and Alice from the Jura. Both are trained enologists who have decided to take their wines in a significantly different direction than their neighbors.

Alzinger is located in the town of Unterloiben, with the estate built around two of the best vineyards in Austria, Loibenberg and Steinertal. Since 2002, the domaine has been under the watch of Leo Alzinger, who previously spent time working in both New Zealand and in Germany at the iconic Muller Catoir. Leo focuses on picking late, but a combination of the vineyards' old vines and ideal aspect helps maintain freshness and bright acidity in the wines.

The Jobard family have been vignerons in the village of Meursault since the 1860s, with the domaine now under the supervision of 5th generation family member Antoine Jobard. These wines were some of the first brought in by Kermit Lynch in the 1970s and quality has only gone up since that time. These wines certainly have become harder to find over the years, but collectors should be aware that quality is high across the board in production from the Bourgogne blanc all the way up to their Meursault Charmes or Genevrieres.

Among the most iconic estates in Burgundy, the Rousseau family is intrinsically tied to the history and fame of the village of Gevrey Chambertin and the village’s most historic site, Chambertin. One of the largest land owners for Grand Cru holdings in the village, Armand Rousseau’s Chambertin has become the benchmark for collectors of great Burgundy. The family has been involved in the wine business for generations, but it was Armand Rousseau who founded the Domaine as we know it in 1909 as part of the dowry from his wedding.

There has been a lot said about Benjamin over the years, and he is clearly a talent among his generation. It almost seems impossible that someone so young could be compared to the likes of Henri Jayer, especially considering he does not come from a family with any land holdings or winemaking history. He decided as a teenager that he wanted to be a vigneron, and after finishing enology school, worked at Cos d’Estournel, Domaine Drouhin in Oregon, and Louis Jadot. He was even named the technical director and manager at the famous Comte Armand in Pommard at the astonishing age of 24.

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Krug was founded in 1843 by Joseph Krug, after he spent time working for Jacquesson. The house quickly gained a reputation as one of the top producers from the region, an accolade which has since only continued. Krug only focuses on prestige wines, and though their single vineyard wines are their most limited production (and most expensive), they rank their Grand Cuvee at the top of their production.

Understanding the decisions of Louis Roederer is a complicated one, but starts with having clarity on their goals. The house as we know it was founded by Louis Roederer in 1833. His son focused heavily on the development of the Russian market, going so far as to create a prestige cuvee, known as Cristal, for the Czar himself that first became publicly available in 1945.

The Vallee de la Marne has never been thought of as the pinnacle of champagne vineyards, however, the Moussé family have been growing grapes there since 1750. While they started producing champagne in 1923, it wasn't until the current generation's management that the house has become a serious force in champagne.

In 1910, Pierre Philipponnat founded the house and began producing champagne, however, the history of Maison Phillipponnat as grape growers dates back to the 16th century. Still family run, the team's work in the vineyards is commendable, most done by hand, even still using horses for plowing. In the cellar, they keep their reserve wines in barrel and also generally use a fairly high proportion of these reserve wines in the non-vintage blends.

Though not as well known in the United States as in the UK or France, Pol Roger has made significant inroads thanks to their attention to detail, history, and the fact that they own 50% of the vineyards from which they source. Founded in 1849 by the firm’s namesake, Pol Roger is still family run today, with the 6th generation, Hubert de Billy, having recently joined.

Champagne Salon was originally created by its founder as a wine to be served to his friends. The quality was so high that they convinced him to sell it--the first vintage sld was 1921, and since, the wine has only been produced during the best vintages.

With a history dating back to 1890, fourth generation Laurent Champs takes his role of running the Vilmart estate seriously. Under his watch, the estate was converted to organic viticulture and has become not just one of the best small grower estates in Champagne, but one of the greatest producers in all of Champagne. They are located in the picturesque village of Rilly la Montagne, and though they grow pinot noir and meunier, they also produce excellent chardonnay--an exception for the Montagne de Reims.

The Loire Valley has changed over the years, although it has always been known primarily for honest wines made by honest people. We now also see some cult producers like Roche Neuves, Domaine Vacheron, Didier Dageuneau, and Guiberteau from the Loire, and that shift started with Clos Rougeard. Considered among some of the greatest wines produced in France, the wines transcend the appellation of Saumur-Champigny and Brézé. Like many other great producers, estate bottling started well over a century ago under the Foucault family, at a time when most of their contemporaries in the Loire were selling their wines in cask to the cafés of Paris.

It wouldn’t be a surprise if you haven’t ever heard of Coquard Loisin Fleurot, even as a Burgundy enthusiast. They are one of the rare examples of a family-run domaine with excellent holdings that flies under the radar. The majority of their wines were previously sold in French supermarkets or directly to clients locally, with small international reach.

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Diamond Creek certainly wasn’t the first iconic estate to produce cabernet in Napa Valley, but they led the charge for super premium, small production wines with a clear sense of micro terroir. In a way, they paved the way for many of the cult wines from Napa Valley today.

Though the first vintage of Diamond Creek was in 1972, the 80-acre, unplanted property was purchased by Al Brounstein well before that. Upoin clearing the land, he found that there were three distinct soil types on the property which led him to realize that three distinct wines could be produced. The three original vineyards, Gravelly Meadow, Red Rock Terrace, and Volcanic Hill, were hence created.

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Trying to reconcile the fame of Aubert de Villaine and the humble beginnings of Domaine de Villaine is a difficult thing to do. As the co-director of Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Aubert oversees production of arguably the most sought after wines on the planet. At the same time, he chooses to make his home a domaine in the unassuming village of Bouzeron in the sleepy Cote Chalonnaise. His choice of Bouzeron only reinforces his desire to be known as a vigneron, while his focus around the unpretentious grape Aligote makes him a true advocate for the appellation. The domaine also produces chardonnay and pinot noir from single vineyards in the area, the wines representing an amazing level of quality. The vineyard work is intensive, followinog biodynamic principles. The winery uses wood tanks for fermentation, with minimal batonnage for the whites and elevage lasting roughly 12-14 months.

The domaine is currently run by Aubert’s nephew Pierre de Benoist who makes wines with focus, elegance, minerality and a sense of place. While these wines can be enjoyed young and often disappear shortly upon release, they age extremely well.

There is not a more storied white wine estate in Burgundy than Domaine Laflaive. At their height, the wines were truly ethereal. The domaine hasn’t been without controversy, though, with a rough stretch of more than 20 years where they (and many of their peers) produced wines that were prone to premature oxidation and lacked consistency. The domaine has made numerous changes over the past decade, and while it remains to be seen if the wines will age the way they have in decades past, they are now consistently performing at an incredibly high level.

There is significant history behind the wines of Elvio Cogno. The winery is named after the patriarch of the family who originally worked at the Marcarini winery in the late 1950s before becoming a partner there. The Marcarini Estate was best known for producing traditional Piedmontese wines from the famous Brunate site in La Morra, which garnered a fine reputation. However, when Elvis retired, fulfilled his life long dream of owning an his own estate; Elvio Cogno Winery was born. He purchased an estate that included a winery and vineyards in the commune of Novello, with most notably a significant amount of the Cru Ravera.

Felsina is among the more elegant producers in Chianti Classico, producing some of the most complex and age worthy wines in the zone. They have always focused on sangiovese and, as a result, their wines are compared to the top producers in Brunello di Montalcino and the other classics from Chianti Classico. The vines are farmed organically, with low yields and a focus on balance and elegance. They produce a full range of wines under the Chianti Classico appellation, with highlights coming from their Rancia estate, their Colonia label, and their top bottling, Fontalloro.

The Georges Mugneret Gibourg domaine was formed in 1933 with the marriage of Andre Mugneret to Jeanne Gibourg. It expanded under the guidance of their only son, Dr. Georges Mugneret Gibourg, who in addition to overseeing the domaine had a successful ophthalmology practice in Dijon. Under Georges, the holdings were significantly expanded, and the reputation of the domaine rose. While perviously well-respected among collectors and vignerons alike, the third generation, led by Georges’ daughters Marie-Christine and Maria-Andree, have elevated the domaine's consideration as one of the top Burgundy. The relatively old vine age across all parcels and the move to biodynamic farming practices has positively affected the quality in both winemaking and the cellar.

The wines go through a cold soak and a relatively long fermentation in stainless steel tanks using indigenous yeasts before being moved to barrel. They spend anywhere from 18 to 21 months in barrel in varying degrees of oak pending classification. Across the entire range, these wines are some of the most elegant and expressive pinot noirs coming from Burgundy. The Bourgogne rouge comes from 60 year old vines located just outside the village of Vosne and is one of the best values in Burgundy--if you can find it. The village Vosne comes from the Colombiere lieu dit with the oldest wines dating back to the 1940s. It is silky yet powerful, and shows well after some cellaring.

Pascal Mugneret spent the better part of the last decade working to better understand the subtleties of the terroir that his father farmed before him. He has made significant changes in the vineyards in an effort to produce with as minimal intervention as possible. He has moved to biodynamics, tills only minimally, uses cover crops, hedges high and leaves many of the apical buds. His vines stand out compared to his neighbors, and his methodology has been admired by many of the younger vignerons in the village. In the cellar, he generally uses between 50-100% stem inclusion with very low sulfur at all points during winemaking. The wines are aged in barrels ranging from zero to 100% new oak, for between 12-18 months depending on the vintage and parcel. The wines have an amazing honesty and purity of expression, but also have significant structure. These wines are coming from some of the most sought after terroirs in the Cote d’Or making this is a domaine to follow.

Long regarded as the most important estate in modern day Piedmont, the house of Conterno first bottled their Barolo in 1920. At that time, it was common practice for Barolo to be sold in cask and was generally consumed early. With the choice of bottling, the Conterno name became synonymous with quality, ageability, and Barolo itself. The Monfortino bottling followed shortly after, and the rest is history. The estate was then guided by Giacomo and his son Giovanni for the following 80 years with an eye to quality, vineyard management, and wines that speak to place.

Earning the name "Barolo Girl" from her peers in La Morra, Giulia Negri has taken her family's 150-year tradition of grape growing and made the industry her own by morphing into a serious wine producer.

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Saint Aubin was long seen as a lesser appellation when talking about the great wines of Burgundy. Hubert Lamy is one of the domaines that has changed that. Olivier Lamy is at the helm of Hubert Lamy and, over the past 20 years, has built a reputation as one of the hardest working, passionate, and knowledgeable winemakers in the Cote de Beaune. The family has a long history of growing grapes in Saint Aubin. Before taking over from his father, Olivier honed his intense focus on meticulous vineyard work when working at Meo Camuzet.

An early proponent of high-density plantings, he believes that this allows the vines to capture more from their terroir. He began this practice in the Saint Aubin premier cru site Derriere Chez Edouard, planting at between 28,000-30,000 vines per hectare, roughly three times the normal plantings and amount of work in the vineyard. The results have been remarkable.

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While Hudelot Noellat is no secret, only recently have the wines started to climb to new heights both in terms of quality and collectability. The vineyards are key to the excellence of wine produced here, with Grand Cru holdings in Richebourg, Romainee Saint Vivant, and Clos Vougeot, and notable premiers cru holdings in the villages of Vosne Romanee, Chambolle Musigny, and Nuits St Georges. The domaine is particularly lucky to have a number of old vine parcels, with Richebourg planted between 1920-1950 and Romanee Saint Vivant planted in 1920. Currently run by Charles Hudelot Noellat, the grandson of Alain, the domaine's focus has shifted largely to the vineyards.

At harvest, up to 20% of the stems are retained and the juice aged in cask for 15-18 months. Roughly 50% new oak is used on the Grand Crus, 30-50% on the premier Crus, 20% on the village wines, and used barrels on the Bourgogne rouge.

There is a quiet confidence that exudes from Jean-Louis Chave; when you spend time with him, you realize that you are in the presence of one of the greatest vignerons of our generation. His philosophy and ambitions are measured in the span of a generation, not months or years. Considering the history of the domaine, Jean-Louis’ perspective shouldn’t come as a surprise; he is the 16th generation to run it, which has been passed from father to son every generation since 1481.

I often wondered why more people, for years, didn't fawn over the wines of Jacques Frederic Mugnier the way they do for some of his neighbors in Chambolle. Always respected, they had never fully reached cult status--until now. Their 2019s might be the best wines the domaine has produced. The world is now aware of the magic that is made at the Chateau de Chambolle Musigny, but this is a story a long time in the making.

When you arrive to visit Jean Baptiste, you pull up in front of his family’s old farmhouse where he currently makes his wines. There is something incredibly genuine about both the town of Andance where he lives and the the wines that he makes--they are honest, speak of a place, but also resemble Jean Baptiste himself. The cellar is functional, but has no frills, with the oldest part of the cellar dating back to 1827.

With a family history of producing wine, Jean and Agnes Foillard weren’t strangers to the wine business when they took over his father's domaine in 1980 in Morgon. Jean, however, early on eschewed the regional trends by focusing on more traditional winemaking practices to produce wines that tasted nothing like what commercial producers in Beaujolais were making. Following the teaching of Jules Chauvet, Jean and three other local vignerons (Marcel Lapierre, Jean-Paul Thevenet, and Guy Breton – the “gang of four”) formed a close relationship and began the movement that changed Beaujolais.

For many years the wines of Laurent Tribut were a well-kept secret among Chablis enthusiasts, often in the shadow of his father-in-law, Rene Dauvissat. The wines were even originally made in the cellar at Dauvissat. When Laurent married Marie Clotilde Dauvissat, they were gifted top Chablis AOC sites as a means to start their own domaine. Over the years, they have acquired more vineyards and moved to a new cellar located in Poinchy just outside the village of Chablis.

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Many producers in the Northern Rhone have been at the forefront of the wine world for decades. Domaine Faury, however, is not one of them. They have always operated very quietly, letting their wines do the talking. It wasn’t that long ago that Domaine Faury mixed agriculture, with the family growing grapes, peaches, cherries, and vegetables, with the majority of wine produced sold locally.

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Marcel took over his family domaine in 1973 but his true “father” in terms of his winemaking career was the now infamous Jules Chauvet. In 1981, Chauvet began teaching Marcel the traditional ways of winemaking that had persisted in Beaujolais for hundreds of years before modern viticulture arrived. Along with his friends and fellow vignerons Guy Breton, Jean Paul Thevenet, and Jean Foillard, the “Gang of Four” was formed, all following the guidance of Chauvet. Their methods were a return to the old practices of viticulture and vinification of their forefathers, focusing on old vines, organic and biodynamic farming, late harvests, and rigorous sorting which resulted in grapes that had the potential to produce world class wines.

Founded by Etienne Camuzet in the 1920s, the domaine acquired vineyards but didn’t come into its current form until Etienne’s daughter died without any direct heirs. In 1959, she passed the holdings to a distant relative, Jean Meo, and thus the estate was born Meo Camuzet. Jean had a successful career in politics in Paris which meant that the holdings were looked after under a number of metayage agreements, the most famous of which was with Henri Jayer. The wines were always sold to negociants under Jean Meo until 1985 when the domaine bottled its first eponymous wine. In 1988 under Jean’s son, Jean-Nicolas, the domaine started managing its own vineyards. He worked closely with Henri Jayer during this time to understand the vineyards and winemaking style that Jayer was known for.

First inhabited in the 11th century as a rural defense fortress, the hilltop Montevertine was purchased in 1967 as a vacation home by Sergio Manetti. In an effort to produce wines for friends and family, he decided to plant two hectares of vineyards and build a small winery on the estate. With its first vintage, in 1971, the potential of Montevertine became clear, prompting Manetti to devote himself to producing wine full time. Manetti grew Sangiovese almost exclusively; he even left the Chianti Classico consortium due to their requirement of using Trebbiano. His wines, from then on, were simply labeled Rosso di Toscana, although they are the farthest thing from a Super Tuscan. The Montevertine wines are shining examples of the great heights that Sangiovese can reach when grown in Chianti Classico.

Located in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Mount Eden is one of the best-kept secrets in California. While they don’t get the attention that some of their peers in Napa valley do, they are located just across a valley from Ridge Vineyards' iconic Monte Bello vineyard, so there is clear potential for world class wine.

Founded in 1981 by Marchese Lodovico Antinori, Ornellaia auspicoiusly produced its first vintage in 1985. It quickly became a benchmark for the new category of Italian Super Tuscans. The Mondavi family from California became co-owners in the late 1990s and eventually took full control in 2002, splitting 50% ownership with Marchese de Frescobaldi. When Mondavi was bought by Constellation, Frescobaldi took over the remaining 50% ownership and has owned it outright since 2005.

The wines from Podere Campriano are compelling on their own. The fact that they are produced by a genuine family who live in a modest farmhouse surrounded by a mere two hectares of vines make these wines even more compelling. The vines are tended by hand along with the rest of the crops produced on their farm.

100% Sangiovese is grown on dark galestro schist soils, vinified by micro terroir split by elevation and exposure. The winemaking is generally the same across all the red wines, with fermentation in stainless steel followed by time in large neutral Botti. The wine is then placed back into stainless steel tanks before spending time in bottle prior to release.

Podere Colla has been growing grapes in the Piedmont region since the 1700s, but it wouldn't be surprising if you haven't heard of them. Only having recently begun producing their own wines, their Patriarch Beppe Colla made wines at the Bonardi and Prunotto wineries from the 1950s through the 1990s--becoming an absolute legend in Piedmont.

Prieler is a second-generation estate run on what was an historic farm, converted in the 1970s, on the western side of Lake Neusidl. The estate focuses on both traditional Austrian and Burgundian varietals. The family’s meticulous work in the vineyards, where soils range from iron rich brown loam to limestone, utilizes cover crops and strict canopy management to maintain restraint and elegance in the wines. Winemaking is low intervention and minimalist, with gentle pressing and a combination of both stainless steel and neutral barrels used, pending variety.

The Dauvissat domaine was established in the 1970s by Robert Dauvissat, but his son Rene pushed the reputation and holdings of the domaine to where they are today. Rene’s son Vincent started working at the domaine in the late 70s and still oversees production. Despite the current challenges of the climate in Chablis, the domaine's old vines and significant holdings in the best sites in Chablis result in extraordinary quality on a consistent basis.

As a collector of these wines for two decades, it has been interesting to observe perception versus reality. Raveneau is often given an edge over Dauvissat when discussing great producers in Chablis, although most agree that they are the best producers in the region. In reality, numerous blind side-by-sides over the years have revealed much more of an even match. Especially considering the meteoric rise in prices for Raveneau, I hope that collectors look to Dauvissat and understand that while different, the wines deserve to be on an equal footing with Raveneau.

Based on the current level of respect for the Rostaing wines, one would assume that they have been around for generations. In reality, the domaine was started just a few decades ago. Sort of.

When Rene Rostaing founded the estate in 1971, he was working as a notary. He continued his work while moonlighting as a winemaker until the estate grew to a size that could support him. He was lucky in that while he was not a winemaker, his uncle, the famous Marius Gentaz, was there to guide him over the years. He then married into the Dervieux family, adding Albert Dervieux as another shepherd along his winemaking journey. When both Gentaz and Dervieux retired their parcels, he purchased their vineyards, quickly putting him in the position of managing arguably the best dirt in the Northern Rhone.

You'd be hard-pressed to find a more iconic American winery than Ridge Vineyards. With a history dating back to 1962, they've changed very little since that first vintage. They are masters of making cabernet sauvignon and what is perhaps the most American grape, zinfandel. Their wines are elegant, with a clear sense of place, and are some of the most age-worthy wines produced in the United States. This legacy is largely due to Paul Draper, the legendary winemaker who held his position from 1969 until his retirement at the age of 80 in 2016. While Paul’s gift for winemaking was clear, it was his ability to let the sites he worked with shine by showing not just their terroir but also vintage character.

Robert Groffier is a relatively new domaine when speaking of Burgundy. Started in the 1950s by Jules Groffier, it is now run by the third generation, Nicolas Groffier. Owning just under eight hectares, the domaine is located in Morey St. Denis but has holdings on both the north and south side of the village.

Located in the town of Tadten, not far from the Hungarian border, Sattler is now run by the fourth generation of the family, Erich Sattler. Outside of some changes in the vineyards, he has kept the estate consistent with previous generations.

Perhaps the definition of cult California cabernet, Screaming Eagle is considered to be the Holy Grail among many collectors. The founders made what was essentially a hobby into one of the most collectible wines in the world.

When Jean Phillips bought original vineyard in 1986, it was already planted to a cabernet. From there, she added cabernet franc, merlot, and more cabernet sauvignon vines. When the vines came of age, Phillips reached out to Heidi Barret, a then up-and-coming winemaker in the valley, to produce the first wine for the 1992 vintage. The release gained significant acclaim, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Thierry’s journey to the Loire was not traditional. After moving from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, he immediately connected with Charly Foucault from Clos Rougeard. Buying in entirely into the practice of biodynamic, he not only converted his entire estate but also became of the biggest proponents the practice both in France and world wide.

Theirry works parcels in both Saumur (for his whites) and Saumur Champigny (for his reds). Thanks to time spent in the vineyard and his biodynamic dedication, he has been able to identify parcels by soil type to individually farm, vinify, and bottle.

Egon Müller is arguably the most legendary estate in Germany. Their family has owned the property since 1797 and they have produced some of the most sought-after and age-worthy wines in Germany’s history. They own almost one third of the Scharzhofberg vineyard, a Grand Cru equivalent and the crown jewel in the family’s holdings. The wines walk a razor's edge with an uncanny balance between the exotic spice and generous fruit as well as the laser focus and acidity.

For a very long time, the wines from Dönnhoff flew under the radar. Riesling in general took a back seat for many collectors, with only the some aware of the magic that happens when the sweet wines have bottle age. Thanks to the likes of Weingut Keller, Egon Muller, and many others, the collector market has awoken to the possibility of great Riesling. The wines from the Dönnhoff family certainly belong in that category. The family has been quietly farming and producing some of the most compelling from Germany, now considered a guiding light in their home region of the Nahe.

Located in the Kremstal on the edge of Senftenberg Mountain, the history of Weingut Nigl is clear when you first set eyes on the estate. Wine production only started in 1985 under the vision of Martin Nigl, while the family was farmers for 200 years prior.

In terms of German wine estates, Robert Weil is a relative newcomer. Established in 1875 in the heart of some of the best vineyards in the Rheingau, they made their home in the village of Kiedrich, an area known for its wine as early as 950 AD. The estate has significant holdings in some of the finest vineyards in the region, Turmberg and Gräfenberg in Kiedrich, which has further cemented its recognition beyond the international acclaim it receives for being in the Rheingau.

There is a fine line between decadence and laser-like finesse. The wines of Willi Schaefer walk that line, with a crystalline focus that seems next to impossible. The wines drink beautifully when young, but have the ability to age as well as any from Riesling.

A World Of Wine